3D printed parts for RC, modelling and toys
Chassis parts, bodies, mounts and spares for RC cars and drones, scale models and toys, printed in Barcelona. Materials by strength and weight.
RC is the perfect case for printing: parts break constantly, they are small, the genuine spare takes three weeks to arrive and costs what a small luxury costs. A printed shock tower is a couple of euros of material, comes off the bed the next day, and you can run three to keep as spares.
Rigid or flexible: choose by how it fails
The useful question is not "which material is strongest" but "what do I want to happen in a crash". A rigid part passes the impact into the chassis; a flexible one absorbs it and springs back. A bumper should deform. A servo mount should not deform at all.
| Part | Material | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Mounts, towers, chassis | Carbon fibre PLA | Very stiff and light. Geometry does not flex under the servo. |
| Bumpers, guards, legs | PETG | Tough: bends before it breaks. Forgives impacts. |
| Tyres, bump stops, grommets | TPU | Genuinely flexible. Soaks up motor vibration. |
| Model detail, figures, fine scale | Resin | Detail FDM cannot reach. Brittle: not for flying. |
Weight and strength together
- 1Raise perimeters, not infill. On a small part, four walls at 15 % infill are stiffer and lighter than two walls at 50 %.
- 2Orient for the load. A mount printed upright splits along a layer; laid flat it takes three times as much.
- 3Fillet every internal corner. A sharp corner is a crack waiting its turn, and in RC everything takes knocks.
- 4Print two or three at once. The volume discount starts at three units, and in RC you will always need the second one.
Which material best survives RC crashes?
PETG for chassis and mounts, and TPU for bumpers and guards. The instinct to reach for carbon fibre is exactly wrong: fibre raises stiffness and lowers toughness, so the part breaks sooner and suddenly. For something that will roll you want a material that deforms and returns.
Can you copy a part from a discontinued kit?
Yes. What we need is something physical to measure: the broken part, a good one from the same set, or the recess it fits into. Send the kit reference too if you still have it, because sometimes a published model already exists and then the part comes with no design cost.
Is a printed part safe for a child?
A made-to-order printed part is not a certified toy: it carries no CE mark, has passed no toy safety testing, and should not be given to a child under three because a small part or broken fragment is a choking risk. Reproducing the missing piece of a toy you already own, with supervision, is another matter.
Where it works well
- RC spares that break often: bumpers, towers, servo mounts
- Drone parts: camera mounts, prop guards, landing legs
- Bodies and model details that no kit contains
- Robust toys and play pieces, at sizes nobody sells
- Cross-brand adapters: fitting one make’s accessory to another’s chassis
Where it stops
- Toys for under-3s. We do not certify EN 71, and a small printed part can break into swallowable pieces.
- High-torque drivetrain gears. A printed pinion in a 1:8 brushless lasts one afternoon.
- Parts living in a car parked in the sun. PLA sags; PETG or better is required.
- Branded replica parts for sale. Spares for your own model, yes; producing another brand’s parts, no.
Recommended materials
Related guides
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